Instructions
All wood projects require preparation sanding. If you skip this critical step, your finish may fail.
Raw wood
See our video: How To Prep Sand New Wood
1. Sandno finer than 220 grit.
2. Remove dust.
New Stained Surface: Do not sand. Apply directly to the stained surface.
Pre-Finished Wood & Sealed Surfaces
See our video: How to PrepareExisting Finishes
- Scuff cleanwith a non-woven abrasive pad & 50:50 mix of denatured alcohol & water.
- Dry1-2 hours.
- Sandlightly with 220-320-grit sanding sponge.
- Remove Dust
Other Substrates: Interior MDF, HDF, & Masonite
Can be used with proper preparation & priming. Always test first.
Step 2: How To Apply General Finishes Flat Out Flat
CAUTION:Do NOT use GF Flat Out Flator any other clear coat, over white or light paints such as GF Milk Paint, or GF White Poly as it may cause yellowing. Any clear coat can become reactive over wood substrates or existing finishes causing tannin, stain or dye bleed-through. All of GF's White Paints, brushable or spray versions, do NOT require a topcoat.
Join General Finishes University Facebook Group at https://www.facebook.com/groups/generalfinishesuniversity for customer support and learning opportunities for GF products. This group is a great resource for guidance regarding choosing the right product, mastering finishing techniques, troubleshooting, or sharing your finished projects.
General Finishes Flat Out Flat Application Steps
- Watch Flat Out Flatproduct overview video here.
- Work in a well-ventilated area.
- Stir topcoat thoroughly to reincorporate solids that have settled to the bottom of the can before and throughout the application process. Do not shake.
- Test for adhesion when applying over an existing finish.
- Thin as desired with distilled water; start with 5%, adding up to 10% by volume.
- Increase open time, if needed, with 10-15%General Finishes Extenderif allowed by local regulations.GFExtender willimprove flow and leveling and increase open time, which is helpful in dry climates.California Residents:Adding more than 2% ofGF Extenderwill make the products non-compliant per SCAQMD Regulations. GF assumes no liability for the improper use of these products.
- Apply 3 coats. No more than three coats is recommended.Additional coats will not improve durability.Flat Out Flat contains more matting agents to decrease the sheen, and the finish can get cloudy when excessive topcoats are applied.
- Hand application: Apply a liberal amountusing a synthetic bristle brush, foam brush, pad applicator or roller with smooth, even strokes & light lap lines.Avoid heavy pressure and back-brushing. Lap lines will tighten down as they dry.
- Spray application: Before spraying, strain topcoat through a fine-mesh filter.Spray wet films at 3-5-mil thickness. HVLP: 1.1mm-1.3mm spray tip, medium air cap.Verify tip sizes with your equipment supplier.See ourgeneral guide for spray tip sizes. Keep your gun at a 90°angle, 6-8" from the surface. On large, flat areas, use wet, even patterns 6-8" wide. For narrow surfaces, reduce the fan pattern to 2-3" wide to reduce overspray.Overlap each pass 25%to conceal lines. Wear a full filter respirator (NIOSH/MSHA approved)and work in a ventilated space. Visit this FAQ for more information on spraying techniques.
- If a faster build is desired over raw wood, use General Finishes Sanding Sealer forthe first coat, followed by 2 coats of Flat Out Flat.
- Finish sand between coats with a fine-grade (220-320) foam sanding pad to improve smoothness and adhesion. Do not use conventional steel wool.
- Remove dust with a vacuum, oil-free tack cloth or clean water-dampened rag before re-coating.
Tips to prevent streaking during hand-application
See our video: How to Prevent Streaking with Water Based Topcoat
- To avoid streaking, apply a liberal amount of product andavoid using pressure and back-brushing. Wipe the wood grain using smooth, even strokes. Use a large applicator, such as a paint pad, for larger surfaces.
- Remove streaks by buffing withor fine-grade (220-320) sanding pad, or sanding well and re-coating.
- For the smoothest result, apply with a spray gun.
Mixing Topcoats
Do not mix Flat Out Flat and High Performance topcoats. They are engineered with different resin systems.
Use
- Flat Out flat is not recommended for high-use areas such as cabinets and tabletops. The popular flat sheens are lovely, but they have different properties than glossy finishes. The flatting agents required to reduce sheen in matte topcoats also slightly reduce clarity, water resistance, durability and resistance to chemicals such as ketchup, soap, chemical cleaners or ammonia. This is not much of a concern in low-use areas but is important for tabletops or kitchen cabinets.
- Here is a tip to improve the performance of your finish and still obtain a matte sheen:Use a semi-gloss sheen for the first 2 coats and a flat for the third for optimum performance.
- Or instead use High Performance Water Based Topcoat or Arm-R-Seal Oil Based Topcoat.
Warning:Do not use water-based products with Linseed Oils or Danish Oils.
Dry Time
Dry Time based on ideal conditions of70°F 21°C; 50% humidity.
Dry time: 2+ hours in ideal conditions
Be sureto allow adequate dry time.You can tell if a water-based finish is dry if it forms a powder when lightly sanded with a fine-grade (220-320) foam sanding pad or 400-grit sandpaper. If in doubt, wait longer. Rushing the dry time can cause "blush," which is clouding in the finish due to moisture trapped between the layers.
Increase dry time if:
- Humidity is over 80%
- Temperatures are cooler.
- 3+ coats are applied
- Thick coats are applied
- Applying over an existing sealed finish
- Applying over products from other brands
- Layering General Finishes water- and oil-based products:
- Water over oil: Let oil-based products dry 72+hr before applying water-basedproducts
- Oil over water: Let water-basedproducts dry 24+hr before applying oil-based products
- To accelerate dry time in humid conditions, add General Finishes Accelerator and work in a space with good ventilation and air movement. If you decide to re-coat before the recommended time, test dryness.
As is true of most "water-white" topcoats, General Finishes water-based topcoats dry clear over non-reactive substrates, such as plastic or metal, exceptGeneral Finishes Enduro-Var, which ambers.When white paint sealed with a water-white topcoat is applied to something as unpredictable as wood, all bets are off and the reason for yellowing is often unknown. It can be caused by topcoat activating tannins in raw wood or aniline dyes, stains, or contaminants in a pre-existing finish. This is most evident when using BRIGHT WHITE paint and most prevalent in sculpted details of furniturewhere the topcoat can collect, intensifying color change to an unacceptable level.
There is no reliable way to predict whether yellowing will occur and to what degree. Every existing finish is different and we rarely know the finishing provenance on an existing piece. Every tree is different and every piece of wood is unique. Raw wood can bleed tanninsimmediately after the topcoat dries or months later with seasonal temperature changes. Oak, pine, mahogany, and Douglasfir are particularly prone to bleed-through.
Summary
- Whites have a lower “hide” quality and are more transparent than most other colors. Nearly all bright whites require additional coats to achieve the desired color and minimize color variation. This can increase the cost of paint finishing. Always include a clause in your contracts addressing the need for additional coats to achieve coverage.
- All bright white paint will yellow slightly with time, with or without topcoat. You have probably tried to touch up white woodwork in your home after several years and noticed the new paint is brighter.
- The underlying finish or wood species can affect the final color of light paint.
- Details and inside corners are difficult to cover with any paint color, but it tends to be more noticeable with whites. This is a naturally occurring phenomenon in paint application and does not necessarily constitute a defect in the paint finish or your technique.
- The more porous the paint, such as a chalk paint,the more likely that yellowing will occur. The topcoat is seeping through the spaces caused by the larger particles of filler that give Chalk Paints their texture.
Tips to Prevent Yellowing
- If it is a low-use project, use a premium white paint that is self-sealing and does not require a topcoat. A clear topcoat is not required on General Finishes Milk Paint for increased durability, as it is a self-sealing, exterior-rated coating with high durability and chemical and water resistance. However, topcoats do provide a smoothsurface that is easier to clean and boosts durability for high-use projects, such as tabletops and kitchen cabinets.
- Usea professional product such as General Finishes Enduro White Poly. It has "increased topcoat properties," is a standalone finish when 3 coats are applied, and does not require sealing with a topcoat.
- We recommend using General Finishes Stain Blocker, an engineered chemical barrier, to preventpersistent bleed-through for interior-use projects.
- Stain Blocker does not adhere to melamine cabinet veneers.
- Stain Blocker cannot be tinted.
- Always test your project's ENTIRE finishing schedule (from cleaning to topcoat) on an inside door or a more hidden area of the piece. This will not help if the yellowing occurs later, but at least you will know if there is an immediate problem.
- Avoid paintingperiod furniture, such as a 1940s serpentine mahogany desk, with light colors. Thepieces were often finished in stain that contained aniline dyes, which cast a pinkish bleed-through under light paint. Not every piece of furniture is suitable for upcycling with a light paint color. Pine, mahogany, and furniture of the 1940s and 50s are a red flag.
- Last, not all manufacturers' topcoats are compatible with other finishes and may react with a color change. Always follow best practices by not rushing, and testing to your satisfaction first.
Knots
Knots in wood tend to bleed and are dense, making paint and stain adhesion a challenge. Stain Blocker may improve adhesion and prevent bleed-through for painting projects.Pine knots are especially difficult to cover with white or light paints. If you decide to paint over them, apply 3 coats of Stain Blocker first; however, we cannot guarantee adhesion or bleed-through blockage. You are better off using a dark paint on pine.
Cleanup of Water Based Products
Application tools and materialscontaining water-based products can be cleanedwith soap and water or General Finishes immediately after use.
Product Spills
Spills may be able to be removed from fabric and carpet if cleaned immediately with soap and water.
Disposal
Discard unused product and waste in an environmentally safe manner; check with local fire and health regulation.
Storage of Water Based Products
Life of Product
General Finishes products do not last forever, even when unopened. They are best used within 1 year. The life of the product may be extended with proper can closure and storage conditions. (see Storage Tips below).
Water-based products canlast 3-5 years ifthe can is unopened, in good conditionand stored in correct temperatures.
Product that is 3 years old will not look like product that is 6 months to 1 year old. You will see more stratificationorseparation as the product ages. Settling is natural. Always stirthoroughly before using.
FoulSmell
If your producthas a foul smell, itis contaminated andno longer in useablecondition.
Clumps & Settling
Gravity can cause some solids to settle on the bottom of the can and slight separation on the top. This is normal. If working with older productstir with apaint mixing attachment on a drill.
If the solids dissolve and clumps smooth out after mixing from the bottom, the product is in good condition for use.
Inability to reincorporate large, chunky lumps afterstirring for several minutesis an indication that the product has frozen and can no longer be used.
Storage Tips
See video tutorial: Tips on Storing Leftover Finishes
Water-based finishes crystalize and form a skindue to evaporation when the air-tight seal on a can is broken at first use. The following best practices will increase the life of your product:
- Pry open sealed lids with a paint can opener by hooking under the lid's rolled edge. The use of a screwdriver can disfigure the rim and lid, impairing a complete seal.
- Keep lid closed while working. Pour what you will use into a bowl, paper cup, or plate, and close can lid as you work.
- Clean the chime of the canthoroughly with a paper towel before closing to create a completeseal. Product fallinginto the chime canbe minimized by using a pouring lid, such as Fitsall. Avoid wiping used brushes on the lid.
- Pound the lid in placeusing a rubber mallet to avoid distorting the chime or lid. Dents in the lid from direct contact with a hammer can impair a complete seal. Alternatively, place a flat piece of wood over can lid and firmly pound shut.
- Store in moderate temperatures.Avoid temperatures below 50°F/10°C or above 100°F/26°C. Keep from freezing. Frozen and heat-damaged product cannot be revitalized. Temperature-controlled spaces, such as a basement, are ideal for storage. Do not store product in an attic, garage, in direct sunlight, or next to something warm like a water heater or furnace.
- Store can upside down to create a liquid seal, minimize evaporation and reduce the chance ofcrystallization.Decant remaining product from the can before stirring.
- Decant leftovers to a smaller container when thefinish is almost used up. Alternative storage containers for water-based products are plastic FIFO bottles or glass bottles. Do not fill metal-lidded containers completely to prevent them from rusting.
The following water-based product mixturescan be stored:
- Product thinned with up to 15% General Finishes Extender or General FinishesAccelerator can be stored, with the exception of thinnedGeneral Finishes Water Based Wood Stain.
- Mixtures involving colors & sheens within the same product line, such as:
- High Performance Satin + High Performance Gloss
- Snow White Milk Paint + Coastal Blue Milk Paint
- Amber Dye Stain + Merlot Dye Stain
The following product mixturesshould NOT be stored:
- Any water based product with thinned tap water; water often contains bacteria that will adversely affect stored paint.
- Topcoat + Stain or Paint
- Milk Paint + Chalk Style Paint
- Water Based Wood Stain + Dye Stain
Furniture Care and Maintenance
Cure First
You have just finished applying a fine furniture finish. Treat gently until the paint or topcoat have fully cured. Allow 21 days for a water-basedfinish to cure and 30 days for an oil-based finish to cure before cleaning.
Regular Cleaning and Maintenance
- Remove dustwith a water-dampened cloth. Dust can build up over time and may scratch or dull finishes if not removed regularly.
- Remove fingerprints, cooking fumes and smoking residue with mild soap and water. These contaminants will not harm the finish, but they accumulate on surfaces and dull the original luster.
- As with all fine furniture finishes, avoid usingfurniture polish, cleaners or dusting sprays that contain silicone, alcohol, ammonia and anything acidic.Exception: We have successfully cleaned with Clorox wipes for occasional cleanups.
- Clean up water, alcohol and food spills in a timely manner and use placemats & coasters toprotect the finish.
- Future finishes or touch-ups may not adhere properly or perform as desired over a contaminated surface.Some contaminants, such as silicone, seep through finish into the wood and often cannot be removed.
- Avoid excessive exposure to direct sunlight, high temperaturesor high humidity. Thesecan damage furniture and finishes.
Warnings and Warranties
Flat Out Flat TopcoatWarnings and Warranties Compatibility
Do not use water-based products with Linseed Oils or Danish Oils.
Limited Warranty
General Finishes products must be tested to your complete satisfaction before using. General Finishes will not be responsible for color satisfaction, misapplication, nor compatibility with other manufacturer's products. General Finishes will be responsible only for the cost of our products, and not for costs such as labor, damage or project replacement.
Contamination and Compatibility
Our finishes are engineered as a system and are compatible with each other. General Finishes cannot guarantee an ideal refinish when applying our products on top of or combined with another company's products or over surfaces that have been in contact with waxes, polishes or sprays containing contaminants such as silicone. Test for adherence and aesthetics before beginning.
FIRST AID: Seek immediate medical attention if symptoms occur due to the following. EYE CONTACT: Remove any contact lenses. Flush eyes with water for 20+ minutes while lifting upper and lower eyelids. SKIN CONTACT: Wash thoroughly after handling. INHALATION: Move to fresh air and loosen clothing. If not breathing, if breathing is irregular or if respiratory arrest occurs, provide artificial respiration or oxygen by trained personnel. INGESTION: Call physician immediately. Wash out mouth with water. Do not induce vomiting unless directed to do so by medical personnel. Never give anything by mouth to an unconscious person.
Prop 65 WARNING: No chemicals were found in this product which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
CAUTION: MAY CAUSE EYE IRRITATION.
Keep out of the reach of children. Avoid contact with eyes. Keep container tightly closed and sealed until ready for use. Wash thoroughly after handling.
Specifications
Basic Features | |
---|---|
Product Colors | Water White in can (dries clear) |
Base Type | Water |
Ambering | No |
Sheen | Very Flat (1-5) |
Interior or Exterior | Interior only |
Tintable | No |
Type | Self-crosslinking Acrylic |
Application | |
Coats | 3 coats |
Application Method | Brush, Roll, Spray |
Brushable | Yes |
Usable over existing finishes | Yes |
Sprayable | Yes |
Spray Tip Sizes | HVLP 1.1mm-1.3mm |
Topcoat Required | Self-Sealing |
Dry Time | |
Dry Time - Touch | 30+ min. |
Dry Time - Recoat | 2+ hr |
Dry Time - Light Use | 7-10 days |
Dry Time - Cure | 21 days |
Contents | |
Can Sizes | Pints, Quarts, Gallons |
Coverage | 65-75 sq.ft./pint, 125-150 sq.ft./quart, 500-600 sq.ft./gallon |
Technical Data | |
Viscosity | Medium |
Viscosity (cPs) | 350-450 |
Weight Solids | 24% |
VOC | US VOC < 250 g/L |
Durability | |
Durability (Highest, High, Medium, Low) | Low |
Hardness (Koenig #) | 89 |
Wear (Taber #) | 50.00 mg loss |
Water (5 max) | 4 |
Chemical (105 max) | 86 |
How To Spray Water Based Topcoat
How To Spray Milk Paint
SDS/TDS
Technical Data Sheet
-
TDS: Water Based Topcoat Flat Out Flat - 2020-03 (270 KB)
SDS
-
SDS: Water Based Topcoat Flat Out Flat - 2021-04 (1.13 MB)
-
SDS: French: Water Based Topcoat Flat Out Flat - 2022-02 (1.78 MB)
Videos
How to Spray Water Based Top Coat
Comparison of General Finishes Water-Based Top Coats
FAQs
Flat Out Flat FAQs
What is the difference between Flat Out Flat and High Performance Topcoats?
Flat Out Flat is a matte water based topcoat with a velvety feel and was developed as a durable alternative to our Satin Wax.
Choose this product if you want a finish that looks more like wax and your project will not require high use. Like wax, it dries softer to the touch than High Performance when completely cured, and it will show more marring and fingerprints. Flat Out Flat is made with a stable self cross-linking acrylic instead of urethane.
High Performance is urethane based and contains less matting agents which result in a slightly harder finish.
For that reason, High Performance is the best choice for high use areas such as table tops and kitchen cabinets. Both topcoats have similar water resistance, but High Performance offers greater clarity. To achieve the matte aesthetic without sacrificing durability or clarity, try High Performance Dead Flat.
Use with Oil Based Finishes: Let oil-based finishes dry for 72 hours before applying High Performance or Flat Out Flat top coat.
Related Categories
- Flat Out Flat
- High Performance Water Based Top Coat
- sheen
Related Products
Flat Out Flat Water Based Top Coat
High Performance Water Based Polyurethane Topcoat
*Can I Mix General Finishes Flat Out Flat and High Performance Topcoat?
No, you should not mix Flat Out Flat and High Performance topcoats. They are engineered with different resin systems.
You can mix High Performance topcoats to adjust sheen. For example, you can mix HP Flat and HP gloss to obtain a different sheen.
Related Categories
- Flat Out Flat
- High Performance Water Based Top Coat
- Water Based Topcoats
Related Products
Flat Out Flat Water Based Top Coat
High Performance Water Based Polyurethane Topcoat
What is the best way to obtain a more durable finish with a flat sheen?
The popular flat sheens are lovely but they have different attributes than glossy finishes. The flatting agents required to reduce sheen in flat or matte topcoats also slightly reduce clarity, water resistance, durability and resistance to chemicals such as ketchup, soap, chemical cleaners, or ammonia. This is not much of a concern in low use areas but is important for table tops or kitchen cabinets.
Here is a tip to improve the performance of your finish and still obtain a matte sheen: Use a semi-gloss sheen for the first two coats and a flat for the third for optimum performance.
General Finishes is constantly seeking new resins and additives to improve the performance of our finishes.
Related Categories
- Flat Out Flat
- High Performance Water Based Top Coat
- Water Based Topcoats
- Technique Tips
- sheen
Related Products
Flat Out Flat Water Based Top Coat
High Performance Water Based Polyurethane Topcoat
*How Can I Tell if a Water Based Topcoat is Dry?
If the finish feels cool to the touch, it's not ready. When you can sand it to a dry powder, it is ready for the next coat. Dry times will be longer if it is raining, cold, or humid. When in doubt, waiting longer is always better.
Related Categories
- Enduro-Var
- Flat Out Flat
- High Performance Water Based Top Coat
- Water Based Topcoats
*Which Is Better as a Sealer? Topcoat or Wax?
It depends on whether you are looking for aesthetics or durability.
A topcoat will provide greater durability and protection than wax finishes over time.
While wax finishes are lovely, they typically show wear (fingerprints) and are not permanent, requiring semi-annual to annual maintenance.
Wax is a low durability finish. It’s fine for a decorative piece that will receive light traffic. It is absolutely not strong enough for tables, kitchen cabinets, or other surfaces that will see frequent use.
Wax takes a bit of elbow grease to apply.
Furthermore, nothing adheres well to wax, which can impact future finish changes. Even though there is internet chatter about removing wax with 3rd party products or mineral spirits, the risk of a failure in re-coating over a wax finish is very high and sometimes impossible.
If you love a wax finish, try General Finishes Satin Finishing Wax. If you want the look and feel of wax with more durability, use our General Finishes Flat Out Flat Topcoat. For even more protection, use General Finishes High Performance Topcoat.
Related Categories
- Flat Out Flat
- High Performance Water Based Top Coat
- Satin Finishing Wax
- Furniture Care
- waxing
Related Products
Flat Out Flat Water Based Top Coat
High Performance Water Based Polyurethane Topcoat
Satin Finishing Wax For Wood
Related Products
- High Performance Water Based Polyurethane Topcoat
- Enduro Professional Water-Based Sanding Sealer
- Arm-R-Seal Urethane Wipe-On Topcoat
- Enduro Professional Water-Based Clear Poly